twenty-five pictures from a trip to palermo, salina and stromboli in september 2012 with mattia. i was captivated by the hat-making shop in palermo with all its patterns and tools. it had been running in the family since the 1930s but none of the children was interested in taking it on so the two old men were resigned to being the final generation. i arrived on stromboli to find a fire raging above the timpone. don luciano, the island’s priest, kindly allowed me to record a series of improvisations on the ancient organ in the church at san vincenzo. the maintainer had left a note dated august 1917, which was apparently the last time the instrument was serviced.