p i n i n g

990326.2345 tamarisk farm

here i am again , lying in bed with my psion glowing up at me from the pillow . it seems a long time since i last wrote under these circumstances . my initial frenzy of writing has calmed down a bit , much as predicted . for the first month every step brought its rush of intense new experience . now i am becoming more deeply engaged with my environment and my work . there are still frequent moments of joy and absorption , but i no longer feel the same need to rush to my keyboard and detail each one .

i am conscious that my record has to date been exclusively positive , something i think worthy of comment . the basic truth is that i am loving what i am doing , but it is also true that i tend to look at my circumstances in a positive light . furthermore , when one takes such a leap as i have , departing from normal expectations , there is a pressure to prove oneself not to have done a foolish thing .

none of this would matter , but i have claimed this string of despatches as a part of my work . a record of what it was like for me to spend a year on an island . thus i should apply the same standards as i do to other elements of my documentation .

so i shall take this opportunity to record that i did feel a bit lonely earlier this evening . not for more than half an hour , and not with any great drama , but i had a wistful sense that i would like to be in a relaxed environment with some friends . the context of this is that i spent most of the period between four and eleven cataloguing and scanning slides . i took a short break to eat , but probably not more than twenty minutes . i am very content doing this work ( though the oft-crashing scanning software continues to irk me ) , but it would be even better if leavened with company .

there we are , i don’t wish to dwell on it . indeed it is worth mentioning that i sometimes experienced far more intense isolation in london , a city where one is ever conscious of things going on to which one is not party . and i would say i was a pretty social creature , latterly at least .  it’s been another sunny spring day here . i find it increasingly hard to make myself sit inside in front of a computer during daylight hours .

: cH

b l i t z

990325.2305 tamarisk farm

my new jaz drive arrived this evening . don’t know whether fedex has a special fleet of courier jet-skis or something for places like this ( i can imagine the kind of people who would drive the things ) , but one way or another it turned up . so now , as i write , the past five years are fairly literally flashing past as my accumulated files are copied over , the name of each displayed on the screen for a moment . every one with its memories and evocations .

for the first time my project has a tangible hook from which to suspend the vagueries . out of discussions with various people emerged the idea of the scillonia digital workshop , a distributed production / training / regeneration initiative . so now i’m trying to write proposals and get the concept hammered into shape . i’ve a feeling there could be something quite interesting in there .

the wedding was an amazing event . after a grey and miserable start to the day ( joffy and i were down at the hall by eight , trying to fasten down the canvas awning to prevent the whole thing being carried out to sea ) the sun insouciantly popped out and shooed away all the clouds an hour or so before the event kicked off . the little church , down by the water at periglis , was crammed full . a toddler was allowed to wreak havoc throughout the service , lolloping around and gurgling with delight at the eccentric goings-on . piers and rachel got through without fluffing their lines and escaped afterwards on wendy’s electric buggy , complete with big white bow .

the reception was outrageously fed by susan , ranging from hunks of lobster to parcels of cornish goat’s cheese wrapped in sea spinach . the day ended with an unreconstructed singsong in the turk’s head . i wound up with plenty of photos , some good sound recordings and a foul hangover . piers and rachel solved the problem of where to go for a honeymoon by fleeing to an even smaller island ( population twenty ) in the caribbean .

i’ve been feeling bad about how little exercise i’m getting compared to the daily cycle runs across london in my past life . yesterday evening i threw a frisbee around with aidan while ross was milking the cow in the next field . a heavy fog rolled in off the sea and put paid to that . but it’s a start . i must repair johann’s rusty old bike .

nato aircraft are bombing serbia , an independent sovereign state , for the second night running . these are strange times . even here there is a sense of foreboding .

: cH

r a i l s

990320.1043 intercity train tween paddington and penzance

leaving london . the density of building steadily decreasing . from close-packed residential and office to sprawling industrial , punctuated with scrapped cars and derelict scrubland .

i awoke this morning at christian’s . good news : the sun was bright in the window . bad news : it was an hour later than planned . too late for any hope of catching the 0815 train . which i would need to catch in order to make the 1525 bus from penzance station to land’s end airport . which i would need to be on to connect with the last flight of the day . and if i miss that i’ve no hope of getting to piers and rachel’s wedding tomorrow on agnes .

so a foolish-feeling start to the day . but it was too late to be worth rushing for the train so i got up and went out to stand on the roof terrace , still blurry from sleep and larglely unclothed . high up on the fringe of hampstead heath , looking out over the whole flat plain of london . rogers’ millennium dome in the east , goldfinger’s trellick tower in the west . crisp air strong sun shadow buildings trees morning-mist-entwined . from such a vantage point and under such conditions london is beautiful .

i checked my psion , on which i downloaded the timetable information last night . the next train would get in at 1540 . so a theoretical possibility of catching the 1615 flight remained .

a couple of expressos from christian’s quirky allessi jug ( i had to phone him at work yesterday morning to ask how to open the damn thing ) . baguette and honey . clothes . pack up . christian emerged and started preparing for his trip up to cambridge for the masters’ degree ceremony . a quaint and fraudulent affair which i underwent a couple of years ago . tube to paddington . platform eight . find a seat . away .

i phoned the steamship company in penzance , who now operate the planes as well . they offered to hold the bus for me , and the flight too if necessary . so long as the forecast fog doesn’t materialise it seems i’ll make the wedding .

my planning is often sloppy and last minute . yet i keep getting away with it . even to me this seems like an unhealthy situation . every protestant fibre in my body protests that hard consequences must follow such slackness . but from somewhere else springs faith that things will generally work out , and this is repeatedly borne out . my comeuppance waits for me somewhen .

the carriage is subdued . only a couple of people talk . most sit back and contemplate the passing countryside or lower their heads in books and papers .

i have been greatly stimulated by this week in london . my thanks to craig , markl , heidi , hans , james , markp , jodi , iaki , christian , bridget . it has been a pleasure to stay with you all in your different fragments of the city . the seminars at school were excellent . leading authorities on social housing , family policy , new politics , trusts and foundations came to talk with us . charles handy and his wife came to talk about entrepreneurship ( i’ve been roped in to help mrs h , a photographer , get to grips with digital imaging ) . above all , the discussions between the sixteen of us challenged me with new perspectives and experience . hopefully we will be able to keep this going in the evolving electronic discussion groups .

it will probably be more than a month before i am back again on the mainland . in the meantime i will be visited by friends and family on the islands .

.2055 tamarisk farm , st agnes

train bus plane and boat segued without incident . here i am . the island is feverish with preparations for tomorrow’s wedding . almost everyone is involved in some way or another . at the moment ben and tonya are cleaning scallop shells in johann’s bath . sue and her team are still preparing food for the one hundred and fifty guests . david and john peacock have run five boat trips from st mary’s to collect guests . the final batch will appear tomorrow morning . i’m ready with my camera and minidisc . it’ll be an early start . johann’s already making jibes at me about that . he seems to doubt my ability to get up before midday .

: cH

y o o t

990312.1141 st erth railway station , cornwall

sitting here on platform 2 waiting for the plymouth train . a bright fresh morning . my only companions on the platform are six young hooligans , sitting on the backs of the benches , passing a fag between them , spitting on the tracks .

when i made towards the benches one of them challenged me < no yi caan’t join us > in a strong scouse accent . the others cackled and looked on expectantly . i continued without breaking step and replied to the one who had spoken < yeah , i’m gutted about that > . dropped my rucksacks and sat down . pulled out my psion and started to write .

the boys slid from their perches and swarmed about me . < whassat ? > < he’s got a computer > < how much did that cost you ? > < i had one of those but it gor nicked > < that’s a pee ess eye owe enn innit ? > . i chatted with them while we waited for the train . the liverpudlian kid , clearly the leader of this little fellowship , was a bright chap . he claimed to be a hacker , having learned it from his father , and it’s possible he was telling the truth . i suggested that coming to cornwall from liverpool must be quite a change . he said it certainly was , that the quiet was unnatural and hard to bear . < yi can only hear the pigs and animals , it drives me nots > .

it turned out they’d all walked from penzance that morning , a good eight miles i’d say . they were trying to get back to truro , another ten or more miles hence , and intended to hide in the train heads . they claimed that one of their number had lost the tickets bought tickets the day before .

so the train arrived , a local two-carriage diesel heading up to cardiff . they slunk into the loo and locked the door . the provision of wheelchair-friendly facilities means that that six average prepubescents can comfortably be accommodated .

the guard caught them just after the train left redruth , the last stop before truro . they got away with a stern reprimand , their journey accomplished . at truro station they barged through the tutting and eye-rolling passengers , sprinting victoriously down the platform and off into the world .

what will become of them i wonder ? they are sufficiently bright and tough to defy the state education system if they choose . and they probably will . they will be able to get unskilled jobs in the service sector or as seasonal labourers . but employers are able to get away with paying insulting wages here and some people see more dignity in the dole or chancing it in one of the various illegal professions .

i wished them luck , and wished there was more i could do .  i flew over from st mary’s in the helicopter yesterday afternoon . the islands were sunk in a thick fog . john peacock made a special journey from agnes for me , cutting through the still dark water with rocks and islands appearing and disappearing around us . the flight was a strange , disembodied journey . just the vibration of the rotor and the suffocating featureless white outside the windows .

there is a feeling of preparation , of awakening , in hughtown . on every street one sees people up ladders , cleaning windows , polishing brasswork , painting woodwork . easter brings the first surge of visitors and their cheque-books . often the weather is idyllic , with clear skies , bright sun and still a sense of freshness in the air . but nothing can be taken for granted .

as soon as i landed at penzance my phone bleeped to announce a text message from ross in sydney , sent a few hours earlier . he was setting off for work round about the time i was turning in after a chilled evening with anna adam adam nikki and their friends in hayle . today we sent messages back and forth all morning , until ross went to bed about an hour ago ( it’s now .1336 and we’re crossing brunel’s superb tamar bridge ) . i’m cut off from this uniquely immediate mode of communication in the islands and it’s always a rush to have it restored .

my new nikon tranny scanner arrived at the farm yesterday , carried up from the post office by johann , just as i was walking out . that made it even harder to leave .

: cH

v e n t

990307.1632

sitting on some rocks by st warna’s cove with ross , murray and aidan hicks . the sea is still and blue , the sun strong , the sky clear . the only sounds are the gurgling water and the oyster catchers’ mewing .

how suddenly the weather is transformed . from hail and wind to lazy paradise in one day . can this be the first week of march ? we’ve been scrambling round on the rocks , picking up computer cables and peculiar irish fridge magnets which litter the coast still from the wreck of the cita , a container ship which foundered here nearly two years ago .

what a blissful day . i keep stopping short and smiling for no particular
reason .

990308.0043

back home , just about to turn in . i listened through the whole of < einstein on the beach > , which must be about three hours . jeez .

still can’t quite believe today’s weather . it was like going to bed in march and waking up in july . normal service will no doubt be resumed tomorrow .

it’s going to be a busy few weeks now . i’m crossing over to st mary’s ( the big island ) tomorrow for several days of meetings and stuff . nick’s kindly letting me crash on his floor ( cheers ) . then i’m off to my parents in gloucestershire for a couple of days before hitting london for a whole week of school . finally a quick dash back down here in time for piers and rachel’s wedding , undoubtedly the golden ticket in the year’s hectic st agnes social calendar ( i couldn’t help noticing those < wedding > boxer shorts … ) .

it was weird . those fridge magnets the guys were picking up this afternoon were mostly irish good luck charms . so you’ve got this enormous ship carrying about half a million of them . and it gets wrecked …

: cH

v e n t

990304.2319 tamarisk farm

the last few days it’s been blowing a hooligan . the sea is something to behold , more white than green . i sit here with johann’s bartok string quartets turned up reasonably loud , but still the pound and rush of the wind is dominant . later i shall do some recording .

today my ancient scanner was unexpectedly restored to life . its nervous innards found the voyage too much to endure and it rapidly became apparent that the staff of most service centres hadn’t even been born when it rolled off apple’s production line . so no spare tubes . undeterred , a bit of lateral investigation led me to < mickey fins > , an aquatic pet shop in penzance . the proprietor and i soon established that he had in stock a tube which was : a ) the right length b ) the right diameter and c ) really bright . so it arrived at the post office this afternoon ( the mail boat braved the wind and sea , more than can be said for the gp who ducked out of his fortnightly trip to the island ) . on first installation the scanner started making alarming retching sounds , so i spent several hours with it in pieces on the floor . miraculously it now works perfectly well so i’m feeling rather pleased with myself . the box in which the tube came makes the assertion that it < promotes coral , invertebrate and plant growth > . hmmm .

i cooked my first meal of indiginous vegetation at the weekend . inspired by piers’ example i stuffed my coat pockets full of sea spinach from a verdent patch down by porth killier and steamed it with pasta for supper . damn good . when i can summon the courage i’ll start on the seaweeds . i almost felt i was doing something illicit , eating food which i hadn’t bought from a shop . another indication how very far we’ve allowed ourselves to drift from our natural roots . cause for reflection i suggest .

: cH

p r i m r o s e

990302.2045

i just came off the phone to granny . as i put the receiver down my face dropped from its cheerful reassuring countenance and i held my hand over my mouth . tears welled up in my eyes but not enough to fall . my diaghram tightened against my heart .

i feel a mixture of love , pain and helplessness . her memory and eyesight have started deteriorating quite rapidly and i know she is finding it agony . a package arrived from her today containing a big black jersey , the last she will make . all my life i have been surrounded by woollens of hers . jerseys , gloves , socks , toys . this last one was a struggle . she had already said she would not make any more but i asked her in december , knowing she would not refuse me . perhaps it was selfish , but i felt such a need for a proper full stop . it is a fine garment , thick , close fitting , with a high zipped collar . i picked out the soft merino wool myself and sent it to her in shropshire .

her other great crafts have been gardening and flower arranging . she has a remarkable sense of composition . a great gift .

all these things i took for granted most of my life , as one does .

i have strong enough relationships with several elderly friends that i have some glimpse of the suffering they endure . the progressive loss of competences and , most painfully , self . how many have grasped me , looked me straight in the eye and said < old age is terrible > . and i impotent even to reassure , for what honest comfort can i offer when i sense the darkness they endure ?

i try at least to fight against this wretched society’s dismissal of their opinion , all they have left to offer at the end . how mean to value this so low , to tolerate them as worthless burdens . we are sick .

: cH

e x c e s s

990227.0203 tamarisk farm

i wasn’t going to write tonight . to be honest i’m becoming a bit self-conscious about the regularity with which i’m still transmitting . can i suggest that anyone who’s getting sick of this switches to digest mode so that they receive a weekly bundle ? or at least let me know . i’d far rather exercise a bit more restraint than end up writing to nobody but myself .

back to tonight though . having wrapped up work about an hour and a half ago i put on some more clothes and set off for the post box to drop some things in for tomorrow’s collection ( six days a week at midday , except in bad weather ) . as i walked i grew conscious that. my window was the only one on the island showing a light .

my packages deposited i struck back . but the briliant moonlight ( about three-quarters full ) and the distant rumble of the surf were too much for me . i walked down to the beach at periglis ( pronouned preg’lus ) where earlier in the day i had stood for half an hour in the rain watching two atlantic seals shyly observing me from quite close in .

beneath the crash and rush of the breaking waves i could sense the deeper roar of big surf . drawn by this i picked my way onwards across the tumbled rocks . around porth coose , through the brambles and grasses out to browarth point . with every stride the sound stronger in my ears , the same rising excitment i knew as a child . reaching the point i hauled myself up on some rocks looking down over the panorama of turbulent water .

all around me was seething foam , stretching out several hundred meters . the rollers combing relentlessly in , rising to a crest where they met sumberged reefs , erupting vertically against the face of rocks protruding above the surface . occasionally a shaft of spray would project across me . the awesome crunch and sizzle and growl all about me . i cannot begin to describe it .

anyone who has spent time watching the surf will know that waves are never constant . at intervals there will be several of greater strength than the rest . it so happened that shortly after i reached my perch such a cluster came in . they rose seven or eight feet , foam blowing from their peaks . one experiences these things things with one’s stomach as much as eyes or ears . in they swept , one after another , crashing around me and filling the air with spume .

this place makes me feel so alive . looking about me i could see the disused lighthouse hovering pale in the centre of the island , the three working lights ( round island , peninnis head , bishop rock ) sweeping their ever-present pulse , the dark shadows of other islands , two street lamps on st mary’s ( the only jarring note in the landscape ) , the thin clouds tearing across the moon , wind-combed bushes , everywhere the sea . the steady wind fresh on my face . the rock and turf underfoot .

anyway i wanted to write . my heart’s so full of it all i had to try to share it somehow .

the bach st john passion is on radio three as i write . some of the most
exquisite music ever written .

honestly guys , i’m almost in tears here .

: cH

b o o g i e

990226.0012 tamarisk farm

this evening’s introduction to email and the web for the islanders went off okay .

i meant to say this in my last despatch , but cheers to craig mark hans and james for putting me up in london . always a stimulating house to be around .

on saturday my friend ross will be dancing on the lead float in sydney’s mardigras in front of about 650,000 addled ravers . so spare him a thought while you’re settling back for the football and papers . best of luck matey . knock em dead .

i turned on the radio for the first time this evening and radio 3 was transmitting a discussion about the craft tradition . another odd conjunction . it’s something i’ve been thinking about more and more over the last few weeks . seems to me you could arrive at quite a different perspective on digital production tools if approached from a craft perspective rather than an industrial one .

the radio’s still on but now it’s playing dvorak . wish it wasn’t .

: cH

r e t o u r

990224.0824 number 18 bus , hayle , cornwall

i’m on my way to the heliport in penzance , having said goodbye to my sister anna and her husband adam .

the bus is bizarrely fitted with fruity pink flourescent tubes down its left hand side . not many passengers . three or four schoolchildren , a couple of smartly-dressed ladies whom one might presume bound for work .

we’re passing st erth’s fine old parish church . closely-dressed granite blocks , squat grey tower . after london i always find these cornish buses wonderfully incongruous . the same vehicles , but bumping and swaying through single-track country lanes .

i’ve never travelled by helicopter before so in a sad laddish way i’m quite looking forward to the trip . there aren’t too many routes on which they’re regularly used . until this year i’d always crossed to the islands by sea . it was cheaper and seemed more appropriate . but the ferry ( scillonian iii ) is laid up over the winter in plymouth for a refit so it’s fixed wing from land’s end or the chopper from penzance .

ah , mount’s bay comes into view . the sea flat and still . st michael’s mount rising fantastically above it , a steep tree-swathed island topped by a fairy-tale castle . soon we’ll be at the heliport .

.0923 departure lounge , penzance heliport
the pre-fight safety video is running for the second time . < there will be some noise and warm air from the engines . this is perfectly normal > . i used my last few minutes of mobile time to phone st mary’s to arrange a place in the mail boat over to st agnes . i’ll just have time for lunch before this afternoon’s bookings to help a couple of islanders with their computers . back into the swing .

.1058 innisidgen guest house , hugh town , st mary’s
i’ve ducked in here for a coffee and to get out of the rain . the flight was largely cloudbound . helicopters are cool . the company which operates the islands’ service is based in aberdeen from where it services the north sea oil fields . the same sikorsky helicopters too . it was less cramped than i expected . 28 seats in quite a roomy cabin . almost all aircraft interiors seem to be fitted out in the wall-to-wall beige plastic cladding introduced by boeing in the fifties . it’s refreshing to see one with even a marginally different aesthetic . goddam ruskies .

radio two has just announced a new government scheme to help the long-term unemployed . from now on funds will be provided to pay for the removal of tattoos . futuristic stuff .

: cH