Category Archives: Wanderer

e n d i n g

10:55 tuesday 8 february – rosevear , st agnes

i sit in my studio amidst half-packed boxes and scattered papers . sunlight cuts low through the windows and i can feel its heat on the back of my hands as i type . my belongings are booked on the launch to st mary’s at half past nine tomorrow morning , ready for thursday morning’s sailing to penzance .

so it is almost over , this enchanted year . but i find my heart is not heavy . i have drunk deep of this place .

these final weeks have been as busy as any . the first full meeting of the scillonia digital workshop’s membership , a session on the internet with the st agnes schoolchildren , the first steps towards a community website built by the people of st agnes , a flurry of correspondence . also i have a new computer , a macintosh powerbook . the big system which has been the mainstay of successive projects since 1995 , when it was acquired to develop the balkan odyssey cd-rom , has found its final home in the school here on st agnes . i found myself unexpectedly sentimental about parting with it . we have been through a lot together , shared many memories . but i’m glad to put it out to pasture here where it may continue to be of use a little longer .

the new one is a joy . i spent half an hour last week with keith in the sail loft designing a padded case for it in yellow and tan canvas . another step towards being able to work from anywhere . i leave for australia on the twenty-fourth , where i shall be for five weeks or so .

today is clear , bright and very windy . i had a packed morning planned on st mary’s . meetings with the duchy of cornwall and the education authority , a handful of other liaisons and ( most important ) a haircut . but it is too rough and the boats were cancelled . there will now be no chance to reschedule these engagements . the weather has had the final word . i wonder if it will calm down tomorrow ?

this inconvenience did have a silver lining . i got some terrific photos of the island’s farmers loading boxes of flowers onto the launch . the light is amazing .

: cH

l u n a c y

05:37 friday 21 january 2000 – rosevear , st agnes

i’ve just cycled back from wingletang where i’ve been watching the lunar eclipse . i feel like sleeping now so i’ll write later .

02:10 saturday

later , as usual , turns out to be quite a lot later !

i’ve just put together a little module : http://www.charlesarmtstrong.net/trawl

you might have noticed a more stable style of presentation and interface emerging over the last few weeks . for the time being i’ve moved away from the photo-journal approach i tried in october to focus on self-contained modules . people’s comments and feedback have been instrumental in shaping the current format . i know some people still find themselves opening scores of image windows , but at least this can be avoided with the next and previous image buttons . it’s always good to hear people’s thoughts .

last night i ( that is , thursday night ) i returned from a magnificent dinner at westward and settled into several hours’ work . i’d intended to spend the afternoon recording interviews but ended up in highly-charged conversation with two island women who nonetheless refused to record a peep . i stuck my head out the door at about half three to confirm that the eclipse had begun . the sky was still cloudy but the moon’s white disc could be seen and a quadrant was indeed absent .

over supper we’d speculated about whether the sky would clear . inevitably there were memories of august’s eclipse , the solar one ( http://www.charlesarmstrong.net/eclipse ) , when a perfectly-situated hole opened in the clouds precisely for the period of totality then closing again as mysteriously .

i woke nik as arranged at four and we went into the lane outside my studio . the sky was featureless black . i decided to bike down to wingletang to see whether it might be visible away from the house lights . i tried to chivy nik into joining me but fresh from bed he was not enthusiastic . so off i sped , down the pitted concrete track , past the ghostly bulk of the old lighthouse , turning right onto the rutted mud of barnaby lane , down the narrowing track flanked by pitasporum and tamarisk , finally out into the open space of the downs . i pedaled through the bracken up to the great rock known as the giant’s punchbowl . there i stopped and looked about .

from the way the cloud caught the beams of lighthouses it was evidently low in the sky . in these conditions one can clearly make out the play of seven different lights . bishop rock , penninnis head , round island – the islands’ trinity . then wolf rock , longships , sennen and lizard , hidden below the far eastern horizon .

still there was no sign of the moon . but several patches of star-crammed sky had opened in the cloud . and they were slowly stretching . it would be worth waiting and watching . the weather here often rewards patience .

so i bounced down the curving track to praskin , my best-loved beach , a short band of white sand punctuated by great boulders and embraced by jagged arms of black rock . i left my bike at the sand’s margin and trod down to the quietly lapping water . then i lay back on the sand , my face to the sky , and waited .

i have not spent nearly enough time this year lying on sand watching the stars . but in a way last night made up for it all . at twenty-nine minutes past four ( i checked my camera’s clock ) i caught my first glimpse of the eclipsed moon . for a fleeting moment a dark orange crescent appeared through the seathing cloud before being consumed once again . nothing more was visible for quarter of an hour . by this time the sky was six-tenths clear with great swathes of stars . but the quarter in which the moon hid remained stubbornly veiled . constantly i judged that she would be revealed by the drifting clouds , but time after time they seemed to mutate before my eyes or reverse their motion or in some other way refuse to disgorge her .

then there was another glimpse , swiftly engulfed . and another , a few seconds . this teasing continued . i smiled to myself and the sky .

around five o’clock my patience was rewarded . twice or three times , for a few moments only , the full disk was revealed . like sombre cochineel , the colour reminded me of the air’s hue during the solar totality . my eyes widened and my heart pounded in the same way . residues from a primaeval ancestry tinging me with the deep terror of perverted nature .

i tried to take a photograph but it was hopeless . this event was to be seen unrecorded .

a little later , knowing that totality would be ending , i raised myself , returned to my bike and began the ride home . at several points i stopped to stare a little longer towards the patch in the sky where i knew a crescent of brilliant blue-white would be beginning to spread . back up at the old coastguard cottages i was granted a view of this , the rebirth of normality looking perhaps even stranger than the fearful orange disk had done .

then i returned my bike to johann’s barn , braced the door with the old broken oar , wrote the few words with which this despatch began and went satisfied to bed .

: cH

s h e l l s

00:32 saturday 15 january – rosevear , st agnes

i’ve just arrived back , a little mud-spattered , from cycling round the island under a moon torn by stormy clouds . no lights . a couple of brief squalls lashed me with icy rain . yesterday there was hail .

these weeks have been filled with wonder and discovery . it feels like the beginning all over again . perhaps this is no more than a heightened sense of the annual cycle . i notice the first white flashes of wild garlic on the path behind covean . the fresh shoots of alexanders in the hedges . the new growth on the tamarisks .

at low tide last saturday murray hicks and i went hunting for winkles on the rocks beside the quay at periglis . christine , murray’s mother , had suggested the idea on the boat a couple of days earlier . we scrambled about , poking in the crevices between rocks , trying to avoid the largest ( too tough ) and the smallest ( too fiddly ) . by the time the tide caught up with us we had gathered what we thought a respectible quantity .

back at westward farm christine dropped them into a pot of boiling water for four minutes , then drained them and left them to cool . once they were cool enough to hold we set to work with sewing needles , spearing each one and twisting it out of its spiral shell , discarding the brown translucent trap-door . quite a fiddly business .

soon we had a pile of these unprepossesing brown coiled creatures on a plate . we ate them the traditional way with vinegar , black pepper and freshly-baked brown bread . they were splendid . not such a rich flavour as mussels , but the same fresh tang of ocean .

murray and mike were not convinced of their edibility . ross experienced something of a conversion , particularly when a liberal dash of tabasco was added .

later on mike set up his telescope behind the house and pointed it towards saturn and jupiter . the sight made a profound impression upon me . somehow i had not expected saturn to look so perfectly like its popular image , a large sphere hemmed with flat slanted rings . and there it was before my eyes . i believe i cried out in surprise and joy . two equatorial bands were visible on jupiter , along with four of its moons . all this at one hundred and sixty-nine times magnification .

stars remain dots of light when viewed through a telescope . few things surpass the beauty of the moon when magnified , but it is an augmentation of what can be seen with the naked eye . at a stroke these planets were transformed from tiny points of colour into neighbours whose form , characteristics and satellites could clearly be perceived . at that moment my sense of the solar system latered . images seen on the page or the screen , however detailed , can never affect us the same way as direct experience .

a day or two later i picked a variety of seaweed i had not previously eaten , one which grows in fan-like clumps of short brownish / black stems . i have not seen it on many of the island’s beaches , but i discovered it in profusion on a little rocky cove between perkillier and browarth point . i chopped it coarsely and steamed it for five minutes , which made it turn a shade greener . with a dash of balsamic vinegar it was delicious . a chewy texture and a strong flavour . no idea what it’s called . this was the first time nik’s been subjected to my seaweed fetish and i was delighted when he responded positively . no turning back now … we’re off harvesting on sunday !

this week finally saw the start of my project to get a photograph and a sound recording of everyone on the island . i’ve been planning it since my arrival but it’s been agony deciding how to do it and what questions i should ask . with typical helpfulness the recharger for my minidisc chose now of all times to pack up . christine hicks has saved the project by loaning me a compatible device from her cd player .

work continues for the digital workshop and the sse . plans are beginning to coalesce for the year ahead . but that’s another story .

a few photos of the winkle adventure at
http://www.charlesarmstrong.net/winkling

and some photos i took in december in an amazing derelict church in islington http://www.sse.org.uk/people/charles.armstrong/st-pauls ( i’ve temporarily stuck these on the sse server as i’ve run out of space on my own – hope that’s ok james ! )

: cH

t u r n

08:34 friday 31 december , penzance heliport

a thick fog shrouds land and sea . it has just been announced that there will be no service until visibiity improves . anna and adam waved a bleary farewell from their doorway in hayle just forty minutes ago .

the spirit will be waiting against hugh town quay shortly after eleven . i’ll be able to meet her so long as a flight departs from here by 10:30 .

this shall be my last crossing to the islands for the forseeable future .

21:47- rosevear , st agnes

just about to don my costume and walk down to the island hall . i was planning to lift some remarkable seventies clothes from my parents but was mortified to discover they had all been sent to jumble over the last year . so we cobbled together a sort of psychadelic african guise . could catch on …

the helicopter was delayed an hour by the fog , but i made it . had a chance to catch up with nick lishman on st mary’s . the first time i’ve seen him since the workshop was founded . lots to sort out for the next month .

some of my friends are already in the next millennium . my turn will come soon , and other friends a little later . there is a great sense of a sphere rotating majestically , a perimeter between lght and dark sweeping across a rounded surface .

the afternoon was clear , with wonderful vivid light .

chin chin everyone

see you next time

: cH

j i n g l e

18:17 friday 24 december – gable end , sandhurst

the eve of christmas . my parents’ house . gusts of wind hurl hard rain against the glass and the floodwaters rise all about . by tomorrow the village may be cut off and once more i shall find myself on an island .

i made it to the mainland without hindrance . the seas were not too steep to reach st mary’s and the wind decreased sufficiently to permit flight to newquay . i was the sole passenger on the twenty-seat twin otter , heavily outnumbered by the three pilots . all the customary announcements were made but ” ladies and gentlemen ” was replaced rather self-consciously with ” sir ” . the view along the north cornwall coastline was tremendous , surf crashing on granite .

from the airport , a bleak semi-military concrete bunker , i was driven to truro by a cornishman who spent the journey berating london and its government . how remote , how arrogant , how uninterested in life outside the metropolis . i sat in uncharacteristic silence mumbling assent where it was required . there had been time only for three hours’ sleep , sufficient to dull even my sense of injustice .

the little website on which i’ve spent so many hours is at http://www.simplyscilly.co.uk . the text was written by the council’s tourism officer and only the three photos of st agnes are of my taking .

then london . my final week as a student with the school for social entrepreneurs . i spent the whole period feeling fatigued , sensing how much the previous month’s labours had cost me . i withdrew myself from the closing presentations and sat , a little ashamed , with my cameras . amongst the students there was a sense of beginning as much as ending . sometimes i hardly felt as if i were there .

there were other liaisons besides , friends and accomplices , many glad reunions . but i wanted nothing so much as to rest . by the time i left london , three days ago , i had the beginnings of the chest infection which remains with me now . i have slept almost constantly these last days .

yesterday i went to buy christmas presents for my family . the prospect repelled me but less so than the knowledge of the hurt which would be caused if i did not . this year of solitude has left me more fervently anti-consumerist than i reckoned . shop after shop sent me reeling with nausea from its piles of brazenly worthless trash , fighting for breath amidst the gleefully purchasing hordes . the solitary oasis was a sparsely-stocked interiors place where i spent quarter of an hour talking about travel with its young sri lankan owner .

london . what can i say of london ? the fever is at full flood . one friend commented ” it is germany in the thirties … everyone is clinging onto what they can ” . there is a relentless pre-occupation with trivia , a dangerously indiscriminate desperation for belief , a wilful abandonment of civilisation . but for all this there is hope too .

the scillonia digital wokshop was founded last saturday in my absence . fate determined it would be so . perhaps this was appropriate in any case . another association will come into being in the closing minute of this year , the votes to constitute it cast electronically . this the seas cannot interrupt .

i wish the world joy .

: cH

t i m e l y

01:56 friday 10 december – rosevear , st agnes

well we didn’t manage to found the workshop last tuesday . we tried again this week , but had to postpone it til today . but today the wind was so strong and the sea so lumpy that the boats were cancelled and our foundings frustrated .

i also heard today that the workshop has been granted its first dollop of european monies . £18000 , levered from the £2000 earned doing the website for the isles of scilly initiative . a modest sum , but enough .

this makes it rather urgent that we get the wretched thing founded before i leave the islands for my final week as a student with the sse . which i shall be doing on saturday . so a meeting is fixed for 10:30 that morning in the information technology room of st mary’s secondary school . pray for calm seas .

the last week has been a continuing frenzy of web construction , constitutional tweakings and stationery design . craig dropped down from london for the weekend , a wonderful diversion . the spirit lost an engine on the way over in the steep swell so he was landed by dinghy on covean . i could see the big grin on his chops from ten or fifteen yards .

: cH

d e f r a g

11:01 tuesday 30 november – penninnis head , st mary’s

alone on a high rock ledge . around me the massive granite forms . lichen-stained in green , mustard , black . etched by a thousand thousand winters into fantastic curls and spurs . far below me the sea churns and growls a cold restless green .

today the scillonia digital workshop may or may not come into existence .

it occurred to me some time ago that i know quite a number of people who produce interesting material and that i also know quite a number of people who appreciate original work .

so i have set up a simple mechanism to bring them together . an email list : defrag@egroups.com . anyone may submit work by sending it to this address . anyone may join the audience by sending an email to defrag-subscribe@egroups.com . any kind of material may be considered : text , image , animation , interactive content , sound , video . all accepted material will be published unaltered . no file exceeding 200k will be accepted . only original work will be considered . in the first instance i shall act as editor , distributing those pieces i like and rejecting those i do not . i’m not inclined to impose any standards of taste or decency , so delicate souls should be warned .

: cH

s t r e a k

02:39 monday 29 november – rosevear , st agnes

i feel i’ve been neglectful of these transmissions . but the fact is i’ve worked more or less non-stop since returning from london .

putting together the isles of scilly initiative website , building the distributed apprenticeship pilot around it , preparing for the legal formation of the digital workshop , designing the final version of the logo for the school for social entrepreneurs , working with the school’s design group on innumerable stationery layouts implementing it , building homepages for everyone connected with the school , setting up a pilot for a distributed seminar with the school , throwing round ideas left right and centre about infrastructure technologies .

i’ve had a couple of visitors too . james smith , the sse’s director , and simon darling , a friend who used to be unilever’s e-commerce potentate . it was a pleasure to show them both round , a chance for me to remember what it was like to see the islands for the very first time . but each visit had its ulterior motive and incorporated long stretches of intense debate .

this is harder than i’ve ever worked before and i’m finding it tremendously exhilarating . i don’t know whether i’ve used this analogy before , i’ve certainly thought it , but the experience makes me think of surfing . a sense of being thrust forward by huge forces , a mountain of green water constantly poised to collapse over me . but so long as i remain nimble , so long as i judge my posture and attitude well , i continue to ride it onward .

usually i get up around midday , eat a leisurely breakfast , then work until seven or eight when nik and i will cook and eat together . after that i’ll get back to work until four in the morning . i manage to find time to get outside for a bit most days .

yes , it does pain me to spend so much time in front of the screen and so little time on the rocks or the sand or the heathland or passing the time of day with the islanders . but there are things i must do whilst i have the energy and the opportunity . i do not expect this intensity of focus to be required of me for long .

but i think i need a day off . maybe sometime this week .

it’s been great sitting down to supper with nik each evening , the first time i’ve shared a meal regularly with someone for a long , long time . we’ve both been pretty adventurous with our cooking , and we’ve got into the habit of baking bread . in fact i took a couple of loaves of wholemeal out of the oven a few minutes ago . kneeding dough is splendid relaxation .

i handed over the big bedroom to nik this evening and transfered to the smaller one he’s been in until now . the last of my chatels came over from st mary’s on thursday ( the third attempt ) so i could unpack my futon and spread it out . the mould had got a bit rampant in my absence , but a quick hoovering soon saw to that .

so i’m all in one place again , the first time since the beginning of may .

having finished my work for the day i made some dough , kneeded it and left it to rise while i went out for a walk . there have been strong winds for the last couple of days but this evening it fell still and a thin mist rose . i walked out onto wingletang down , my heart thrilling as the sound of the ocean grew louder . to my left i could hear the high-pitched crash of surf on the southern tip of gugh . to my right i could hear , or rather feel , the awesome sub-sonic rumble from horse point and the western rocks . i rested on a granite boulder, able to discern the foaming whitewater in the darkness . the great waves of the south-westerly swell driving in relentlessly and destroying themselves upon the rocks . the bishop’s sweeping beam punctuating the hazy sky , silhouetting distant black islets .

as i turned and set off home i could see the distant light from rosevear , the rest of agnes sleeping . later , as i neared the house , the light spilling from my studio windows onto the lane seemed almost indecently bright .

: cH

p a r a b o l a

01:45 thursday 11 november – rosevear , st agnes

my eye lights upon the clock in the corner of my screen and i realise i have lain here three minutes already , unsure how to begin . how complex i make simple things . how easily i lose myself in the infinite possibilities .

i returned to the islands on tuesday afternoon after seventeen days on the mainland . my longest absence since arriving . the birdwatchers , the islands’ last invaders , are gone . the tourist shops in hugh town are closed and their windows cleared . the tripper boats are laid up , no longer jostling against the quay . the harbour moorings lie empty . the islanders have the place to themselves once more .

these are the islands i discover , so transformed from those i left . the sky is perfectly clear , the granite glowing in its low golden light , the calm water appearing soft and mysterious . my heart lifts .

the time in london has been extraordinary . on none of my previous visits have i packed my time so tight . the city is ablaze with the twin fevers of web speculation and the impending millennium . it is a strange place , vivid and dangerous . as my visits have punctuated the year i have sensed the rising tides and sought for ther direction . the change i perceived between september and october was greater than between any previous months . i know not what i shall find on my next foray , due in mid december .

a few fragments :

i saw tippett’s opera king priam with my aunt clare at the colliseum . one of the finest productions i have ever seen . a drama of destiny , choice and consequence with the power to hold a non-specialist audience’s attention through three acts of abstract music .

i had lunch with michael young and felt humbled by the astuteness of this octagenarian’s quizzing of my designs for electronically-distributed democratic systems . i made him promise to summon the patience to learn how to use a computer , even if he only gets to grips with email . he asked me if i would consider joining a group of about thirty people to go and live on an uninhabited island for a year to see what kind of constitution we would end up with . he seemed certain that some kind of religion would emerge . i thought insanity was more likely and told him to ask me again after i’d spent six months on a slightly larger land mass .

i tried to explain my model for the school for social entrepreneurs’ communications infrastructure to the staff and my fellow students . it was all a bit rocky and incoherent but slowly i’m beginning to find the language to communicate some of my ideas . the group’s questions and challenges were useful .

i met tom perrett for the first time in a year , just returned from adventures on the other side of the world . the same but different .

i had dinner with dinah moule , an inspiring young lady who aims to set up an organisation providing a space on the web where children can discuss their problems and access information .

i met mark czapnik , a traveller from melbourne , alighting from a bus at two in the morning and spent the next three and a half hours in conversation .

i walked the streets of west london with my friend henry hawkins quietly lamenting the difficulty of life .

the litany need not continue i think .

03:15 friday 12 november – rosevear , st agnes

just returned from a star-lit walk by the shore . seems a long time since i last did this . the sea is so still i did not see its margin and found myself treading in a couple of inches of water .

i stood and turned my face to the stars for an unmeasurable period . how wonderful they are , how ceaselessly compelling . as i watched a big meteor ripped across the sky leaving a trail of fizzing light . childlike i made my wish .

nik schultz arrived here on monday night and was in the house when i arrived . it was quite a gamble deciding to live and work under the same roof over the winter having never met , but somehow it seemed perfectly natural . i’ve been ranting on more than usual the last couple of days . maybe it’s because of all the stuff going round in my head or just because of the unaccustomed luxury of having an audience . he’s been very polite anyway . meanwhile we’re delicately negotiating about who has the big bedroom .

nik met andrew may , a director of the islands’ main flower marketing business , on his way over and there’s the prospect of a web project . fast work , and more apprenticeship opportunities for the workshop .

i spent much of this afternoon preparing supplementary material for the workshop’s european funding bid . i failed to persuade the laura ashley foundation that it would be a good idea to give us another few grand . lets hope we have more luck with this one .

: cH