n y t t a a r

[ 15:52 saturday 3 january 2015 – lyngen, norway ]

i’m sitting at a great oval table with a computer-fabricated viking longship suspended above me. the building is a spectacular updating of a mediaeval great hall, an immense open space with a steeply pitched roof held up by the huge trunks of eight pine trees . the roof and walls are clad in pine planks. the floor is stone with a fireplace in its centre surmounted by a copper hood and steel flue which runs to the roof.

the hall sits on the west side of lyngenfjord, norway’s largest fjord. the small town of lyngseidet with its three thousand inhabitants lies six miles to the north. on either side of the fjord jagged mountains rise sheer from the water to a height of six thousand feet. beyond the mouth of the fjord are the grey wastes of the arctic ocean. at a latitude of sixty-nine degrees north this is the fringe of the human-inhabited world, deep inside the arctic circle.

this far north the sun doesn’t rise for two months during mid-winter. the landscape is bathed in a mysterious blue twilight for four hours each day from ten in the morning until two in the afternoon. the rest of the time it is darkness. each day during the precious hours of light i go walking beside the fjord with my rolleiflex. the rest of the time i am here in the hall chatting, reading and writing. last night i had my first glimpse of the northern lights, sending bands of electric green swirling and flickering across the velvet sky.

as 2014 neared its end i felt a growing hunger to escape from the world. so much has happened and so many new doors are opening. i needed to get away from everything, clear my head and ready my focus for the year ahead.

typically my first thought was to seek out a small island. i started looking at the cape verde group and preparing plans. but my friend jens dyvik, a designer and fabricator based in oslo, suggested a trip up here and it seemed perfect. my friend martin dittus from london was also able to join us.

the reason for jens’ suggestion was not just the spectacular location. the hall where i’m sitting was the world’s first “fablab”, a workshop with a strong community ethos providing a variety of computer-controlled fabrication devices for contemporary craft workers. there are now more than three hundred fablabs around the world but this is where the movement began in 2003. its founder haakon karlsen is a remarkable man who has pioneered everything from the most efficient technique for artificial insemination to wireless systems that track sheep roaming free in the mountains. it’s been an inspiration learning about his philosophy and experiences.

jens specialises in systems of community design and production. he publishes the files for his designs without restriction so they can be freely reused and adapted by other people around the world. he spent two years visiting fablabs in twenty countries and working on projects with them as he went. he’d made two prior visits to lyngen to meet haakon and was eager to make a third trip. it’s been fascinating to be a bystander as they take a laser scan of an iron-age brooch and fabricate a mould so they can cast replicas; or as they cut text into a raw pine plank with a computer-controlled milling machine to create a sign for the sheep farm where the fablab is based. it’s the first time i’ve seen experts working with these tools at close quarters. the path from an idea to a beautifully-crafted physical object is astonishingly fluid and immediate.

jens, martin and i joined a dozen of haaken’s family and friends to see in the new year with a vast norwegian feast of fish, meat and salads in the hall. at midnight we went outside in the snow with glasses of champagne to watch fireworks going off all around the fjord.

2014 has mostly been a wonderful year for me. the trampery opened two new buildings. the first was fish island labs, a centre for digital arts created with the barbican centre in an edwardian stable block beside the river lea. the second was the trampery old street, where we transformed an abandoned 1960s building in  central shoreditch. old street was the culmination of three and a half years’ struggle and probably the most difficult thing i’ve ever undertaken. i ended up taking responsibility for the entire interior, down to the selection of every light switch and tap, so it was also the biggest design project i’ve done. sulaiman sibai made a beautiful film about the creation of the building. with poetic timing the trampery old street opened five years to the day after the doors opened at the trampery’s very first site at dereham place.

it was also an exciting year for trampoline systems. craig and i rebooted the company in 2011 with a new focus to develop innovative techniques for analysing business data. 2014 was really the year this approach came of age. in the spring we were appointed by the european commission to undertake a two year initiative analysing the startup economy across the whole continent. then in the autumn we won a project from the mayor of london’s office to undertake the most detailed ever analysis of the science and technology sector in greater london. in between we completed projects analysing the employment and revenue created by the uk’s venture capital industry and tracking all the country’s high-growth firms.

having been such a woeful correspondent over the past three years the backlog of untold stories is too intimidating for me to even think about trying to chip away at it. the most i can attempt is to fill in a couple of the larger pieces.

after six years living upstairs from a glass foundry in dalston, in september 2013 the glassmaker sold the whole building for redevelopment and i was obliged to move out. i’d loved being there despite the constant filth percolating up from below, the leaky roof and the impossibility of heating the place in winter. in particular i loved the immense roof terrace where i cultivated a wild garden complete with summer house. the prospect of moving was horrifying. first because of the sheer quantity of stuff i’d accumulated through inheritance, ebay purchases and picking stuff up on the street. second because it seemed highly unlikely i’d ever find another place that suited me so well.

the search was every bit as depressing as i feared. but at the last minute i came across something so peculiar  it made my jaw drop. it was a 1940s lock-keeper’s cottage in hackney wick, converted into a television studio in the 90s, sandwiched between the river and the canal, without any road leading to it, surrounded by lawn and mature trees. in an extra bizarre twist the house was the closest dwelling to the olympic stadium. i raced over to see it and fell in love right away. the owners lived next door and were understandably picky about who moved in so i had an anxious few days while they considered my suitability. thankfully they concluded they could put up with me as a neighbour.

moving my belongings from dalston to hackney wick required three days, three vans and a team of four burly lithuanians. the lack of road access meant every item, including my piano and spinet, had to be carried across the canal on a footbridge then wheeled up the towpath to the house. it was one of the most appalling experiences of my life but at last it was done.

after fifteen months living at old ford lock cottage i’m still intoxicated by the miraculous improbability of it. the house is like a sanctuary, a pocket of rural tranquility cheek by jowl with london’s most creatively energetic district. often the loudest sound i can hear is the wind rustling in the trees, birdsong or the rush of water from the lock sluices. yet i can walk out of the house and within ten minutes be watching experimental theatre or bouncing around at a rave.

the house is spread over three floors with dining room and kitchen at ground level, the main living space on the first floor and a spiral staircase leading up to a bedroom and dressing room on the second floor. the building was beautifully refurbished by my landlord with a variety of reclaimed materials. in contrast to dalston the windows are double glazed, the walls are insulated, the roof is waterproof and  everything in the house works.

as summer approached i constructed a south-facing deck in front of the house where i have breakfast as often as conditions permit. i also acquired a five-man inflatable dinghy (with electric outboard) and a one-man kayak to escape up the canal alone or with friends whenever the mood takes me. they have been well used.

2014 was a year of hectic travels with trips to warsaw, paris, brussels, cannes, toronto, san francisco, copenhagen, austin, salzburg, oslo, geneva, chamonix, stromboli, pizzo callabro, jeddah and finally lyngen. it’s been a bit exhausting fitting all this in alongside my labours in london but the succession of encounters with different people and places has been magnificently energising.

i’ve left the biggest development of these years until last. specifically it consisted of meeting a beautiful young architect called mattia at a club in dalston in september 2011. he was dancing in a world of his own, as if the rest of the crowded club didn’t exist. i was immediately smitten. we spent the next three years together.

i never expected to find a partner who shared my guilty adoration of brutalist architecture and 1970s urban planning. we worked together on a series of trampery interiors, bickering like a pair of old women. these were supremely happy years for me. it was hard when our relationship came to an end in september but i remain grateful for every moment of it.

here’s to 2015. for everyone reading these words i send my wishes for courage, truth and joy in the year ahead.

: c :

f o t o s : lyngenfjord, new year 2015

thirty-one images from midwinter at the edge of the arctic ocean. hiking with jens and martin beside lyngenfjord in the sunless indigo twilight. an emporium of components and relics in haakon’s technology-filled viking hall. a trawler torn in half by the might of a winter storm. my sincere gratitude to haakon for his hospitality and inspiration.

related post: n y t t a r

camera: rolleiflex 6008i
lens: rollei distagon el 1:4 50mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 8000ed

f o t o s : jeddah & king abdullah economic city, november 2014

forty-four images from a brief visit to saudi arabia’s red sea coast. the ancient port city of jeddah with its crumbling mud-brick houses, labyrinthine medina, brutalist petrol stations and a freakish rainstorm. then in complete contrast king abdullah economic city; with its surreal fragments of a visionary mega-project to build a new city of a hundred thousand people in the desert, frozen in mid-construction by the global economic crisis. my thanks to fawaz farooqui for his warm hospitality and my admiration for his passion to advance the society in a positive direction.

camera: rolleiflex 6008i
lens: rollei distagon el 1:4 50mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 8000ed

f o t o s : london, margate & finchcocks, september-november 2014

bazelgette’s 1860s northern outfall sewer where it crosses the river lee near my house plus a rare glimpse inside his cathedral-like abbey mills pumping station from 1868 complete with huge 1930s control panel; sulaiman with his new camera; gentleman bikers in becton; patrick in his studio; late summer sun at old ford lock; twilight and melancholy in margate; baroque keyboards in paladian splendour at finchcocks (thanks sam).

camera: rolleiflex 6008i
lens: rollei distagon el 1:4 50mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 8000ed

f o t o s : pizzo & environs, september 2014

here’s the second batch of images from the rolleiflex. these were taken during a stay with giuseppe at the cinema his grandfather built in the 50s, perched on the edge of a cliff in the town of pizzo, calabria.  alongside shots of the cinema there are a couple of pictures from the gulf of lamezia with an approaching storm and one from the bottom of the cliff looking up at the cinema in the most amazing light during the storm. i included a couple of frames where i messed up the exposure or didn’t keep the camera still enough, since i like the resulting images. i wrote a description of the cinema and giuseppe’s project in this wanderer despatch.

camera: rolleiflex 6008i
lens: rollei distagon el 1:4 50mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 8000ed

d i n u o v o

[ 18:39 wednesday 27 august 2014 – piscita, isola di stromboli ]

i’m sitting on paolo’s long terrace, dripping wet after swimming. the evening sun hovers low above the flank of the volcano. below me the sea is almost motionless. tiny waves lick and fizz against the black sand. the day’s hydrofoil from napoli creeps across the horizon, the growl of its powerful engines clearly audible in the shimmering air.

it’s twenty-nine months since my last entry in this journal. this has been a wondrously fertile period for me. seeds i’ve planted and tended over a decade are sprouting on every side. the trampery has grown from one building to four; spreading across software, fashion, design and the arts. two more buildings are due to open before the end of the year, including a spectacular new flagship in the centre of shoreditch. the trampery’s also part of a project to develop a completely new kind of “entrepreneurial community” integrating 500 apartments with 50,000 square feet of workspace, studios, cafes and event spaces. meanwhile after years of ups and downs trampoline systems has found a solid niche as a data analyst focused on business clusters. over the past year the company has won a string of landmark projects including one from the greater london authority to undertake the most detailed ever analysis of the region’s technology industry and one from the european commission to analyse europe’s entire startup ecosystem. finally one click orgs has launched the world’s first fully electronic co-operative, providing member-owned organisations where membership, voting and governance can all be managed online. i could happily write an essay on each venture but this journal exists to chart the personal journey rather than the entrepreneurial one.

two years have passed since i last set foot on this island of stromboli. after living here from july 2001 until july 2003 i’ve continued to come once or twice each year. the island became a second home for me, a parallel set of continuing relationships and experiences, an opposite pole to my frenzied life in london. stromboli was my safety valve, a retreat open to me whenever i needed it. here i could find the solitude and the immersion in wild nature which london denies. this second universe allowed me to throw myself into my work in london with a vigour that would otherwise have been impossible.

by my last visit in 2012 my relationship with the island felt out of balance. after coming here as a complete outsider in 2000 with he photographer fabrizio ruffo i’d gradually become an insider. my time with matteo sforza in 2010 accelerated the process by casting me as partner to someone who grew up in the community. without realising it i’d developed a sense of entitlement, feeling aggrieved if i wasn’t invited to certain parties or gatherings. this was ironic bearing in mind that during my two years living on the island i carefully maintained my status as an outsider and sought to avoid entanglement in the complex systems of obligation and affiliation.

i needed a break to reset my relationship with the island. the two year gap since my last visit has done the trick. when i arrived on the island last friday i felt like an outsider once again with a fresh sense of humility. during these days, as in my earliest visits, i have mostly sought solitude. during the afternoon i pass hours sitting alone on the black rocks bathed in the intense white blaze of sunlight watching the shimmering azure horizon. in the evenings i become more sociable, circulating around the village and visiting friends. i find myself eschewing parties in favour of smaller private gatherings. i feel close to my dearest friends again in a way i haven’t done for too long. everything has come back into focus.

this restoration of balance has manifested itself forcefully through my photography. from my earliest visits the camera was a catalyst for my exploration of the island and its people. behind the lens i would become entranced, completely absorbed in the delicate rhythms of light and colour around me. over the years the trail of images i left served as a record not only of my obsessive explorations of the island but also my changing relationship with it. one of the most unsettling aspects of the final years was the increasing difficulty i found to capture the inspiration which had arisen so effortlessly in the past. from this perspective my arrival on this visit was like my very first arrival. everything that had become familiar and over-explored was once again new and mysterious. 

this sense of a new beginning was heightened by having a new camera in my hands; indeed not just a new camera but a completely different photographic format. a couple of months ago i lost my faithful canon eos 3. instead of replacing it i started researching medium format cameras. the eos 3 subsequently reappeared but by that point it was too late to turn back. i spent a month trying to make sense of the byzantine variety of formats, bodies and lenses before concluding that i wanted a rolleiflex 6008i with a 6×6 back and a 40mm or 50mm lens. a happy combination of destiny and ebay then delivered me precisely what i sought. one evening a couple of weeks ago i cycled up across walthamstow marshes to collect a tightly packed box from a fellow called ibraam. i spent the next few days putting everything together and figuring out how it worked. after a week i felt confident enough to load my first film and take the camera blackberrying with some friends by the river lea. each roll of 120 film provides just twelve frames, each frame six centimetres by six centimetres square. this encourages a certain economy in usage. so far on stromboli i’ve used three rolls. the camera is considerably heavier and bulkier than the eos but this should be amply compensated by the quality of the images that result. of course until these first films have been developed i can’t be entirely sure i’m actually using it correctly. i half expect a set of blank images to be returned from the laboratory.

three weeks ago a lava flow formed on the side of the volcano, the first time this has happened since 2007. stromboli’s typical pattern of activity is three or four eruptions an hour from craters at the summit. this pattern switches to a lava flow if the pool of magma rises to the top of the cone. the last time i saw one was in january 2003 shortly after a massive explosion ripped the top off the mountain and a tsumami triggered the island’s evacuation. the opportunity to capture the new lava flow with the rolleiflex was an irresistible mission for the trip. just before sunset on monday i set off up the mountain with paolo and a group of friends. we’d ascended to around three hundred and fifity metres when we were stopped by a pair of guides who informed us that the mountain was closed above two hundred and ninety metres for safety. usually in these situations if a guide recognises you they’ll turn a blind eye but on this occasion they made it clear they weren’t budging until we turned round and descended. reluctantly we began to retrace our steps with the guides following at the rear. having lugged the camera so far and got so close to my objective i wasn’t going to let anything stop me. so i nonchalantly wound my way to the front of the group and waited for a sharp bend in the path then darted into the bushes and hid myself. once i was sure everyone had passed, including the guides, i returned to the path and continued the ascent. to avoid attracting attention i avoided using my torch, relying on starlight and peripheral vision to follow the path.

i spent the next five hours on the mountain, ascending to six hundred metres and being rewarded with a jaw-dropping experience of the lava flow. the fact i was the only person on the mountain made it feel even greater a privilege. it’s hard to express what it’s like to be so close to a lava flow. it’s like watching a massive incandescent creature, writhing its way across the mountainside, probing for new gullies to occupy, constantly in motion. whilst i watched a new channel formed and pushed its way down a hitherto dark section of mountainside. the lava was orange and red with brighter whites and yellows where the crust cracked exposing hotter material inside. in parallel with the viscous lava rocks were constantly solidifying and breaking off, rolling down the slope like incandescent snowballs, exploding with showers of sparks where they bounced. the visual spectacle was accompanied by an incessant fizzing, crackling, popping and banging. i could feel the heat on my face.

on this visit, as with so many previous visits, i am staying with my friend paolo russo on his estate at piscita. to a large extent the preservation of my sanity over these past ten years has been thanks to his hospitality. 

[ 13:32 wednesday 3 september 2014 – cinema mele, pizzo, calabria ]

on saturday afternoon pasquale dropped me at the port in stromboli and i hitched a lift to vibo marina on the return leg of a day-tripper boat from calabria. my friend giuseppe picked me up in his gorgeous 1970s fiat minivan (a 900 pulmino) and drove me back to pizzo. i’ve spent the last five days staying with him in the clifftop cinema his grandfather built in the 1950s.

cinema mele is an exquisite and miraculous survival of post-war italian architecture. one descends a narrow side street in the old city of pizzo to find a tall doorway at the end with “cinema mele” written above. the entrance opens into a grand marble-floored lobby with a huge square window offering a panoramic view over the sea. to the left one staircase ascends to a lobby at balcony level and another descends to a lobby at stalls level. tall teak-veneered doors open from each of these lobbies into the flank of the main auditorium which is twisted around to place the screen on the same side of the building as the entrance.

the walls and ceiling of the auditorium are covered with moulded white plaster panels in three different designs. the floor is polished concrete. the lower sections of the walls are painted brick red or cream. the doorways and windows are trimmed with red velvet pelmets and gold tassels. the auditorium seats 500 in rows of delicate curved plywood chairs mounted on thin steel legs. the staircases and balconies sport simple steel bannisters with a zigzag motif. at the rear of the auditorium a terrace runs the whole width of the building. from the edge of the terrace. at the edge of the terrace the cliff falls away to the sea a couple of hundred feet below.

the cinema fell out of use thirty years ago and has lain abandoned since then. for reasons nobody can fathom giuseppe’s great uncle had the windows removed. as a result the building has suffered. in places the reinforcing steel rods in the concrete structure have corroded and chunks of concrete have crumbled away. damp in the walls has caused paint to peel away and the rendering to bubble up. the velvet pelmets are rotted and hanging in tatters. leaks in the roof have stained a couple of the moulded panels. but overall the building has survived miraculously well. the cinema has never been refurbished so the building one experiences today is fundamentally as it was designed by giuseppe’s grandfather sixty years ago.

two years ago giuseppe took upon himself the epic task of bringing cinema mele back to life as an arts venue. over the last two summers he’s installed new electrical and plumbing systems, created a kitchen in the stalls lobby and started work to stabilise the building’s condition. in the process he’s turned its ruined aspects into sculptures and things of beauty. through the summer he lives here with the artists and performers he invites from around the world to collaborate in this extraordinary environment. his next challenge is to raise money to put in windows and waterproof the roof. my rolleiflex has been busy documenting the building in its current condition. i’m up to eleven exposed rolls now.

this evening i fly back to london and resume battle on my ventures. i feel ready for everything.

: c :

f o t o s : stromboli, august 2014

so here they are, the very first images from my rolleiflex 6008i medium format camera taken during ten days on the island of stromboli. out and about in piscita and the rest of the island; at home with paolo and enki; a night on the volcano watching the lava flow and getting covered in ash; gustl’s catcus garden; salvo in his ceramic studio; nerina in her new shop.

these images are dedicated to gusti schuldes who at the time of writing (october 2014) lies silent in a coma. we’re ready for you to come back now gusti.

camera: rolleiflex 6008i
lens: rollei distagon el 1:4 50mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 8000ed

f o t o s : london, january to april 2013

four months exploring london as winter turns to spring. snowfall at haggerston hall, out and about with mattia, a one-day preview at the site of the trampery old street, the curtain falls at stoke newington international airport, a pilgrimage to robin hood gardens, moving into mother at the trampery.

camera: canon eos 3
lens: canon l-series 1:4 24-105mm
film: fujichrome provia 400x
scanner: nikon coolscan 4000ed